Monday, October 31, 2011

Floripa, Ilha de Santa Catarina, Brazil

After almost one month in Brazil I have managed to confuse Spanish, Portuguese and Italian to the point that I am never really sure what language I am speaking. Trying to learn some Portuguese was not such a great idea I guess. So what have I been up to? Is Brazil nice? Are the girls really beautiful? Do people dance samba in the street? Is the surf good?

First things first, when I landed in Brazil I stayed with Gustavo a friend of my good friend Thiago and a really great guy. The Brazilian people I met so far were all absolutely fantastic and meeting people like Gustavo is what makes traveling special. I didn't really like the city of San Paulo, it is a gray man-eating Megalopolis, however I had a great time and met new friends.

After my stay in the biggest city of South America and the financial capital of Brazil I headed down to Florianopolis. To get here I took an 11hr night bus which I think drove past the arctic circle on the way here, the air conditioning was so strong that I was starting to wonder if I hadn't landed in a cryogenic clinic by mistake. Fortunately I had warm clothes with me and I survived the extreme temperatures.
I have been staying at the Barra Beach Hostel, right in front of a beautiful little beach that goes by the name of Prainha do Leste (Little beach of the east). The hostel is a beautiful place set in the lush green hills of the Isla da Magia (island of magic) or Island of Santa Catarina. Some parts of the coast are overdeveloped, with tall buildings and ugly highways in what is otherwise an idyllic setting, however not Barra da Lagoa. The east side of the island was kept intact thanks to the wise government, most of it is considered a natural reserve and severe building restrictions are -almost always- imposed. This makes Barra da Lagoa a peaceful fishing village. The island of Florianopolis is beautiful, the greenest mountains are the backdrop to stunning beaches and a beautiful lagoon. It feels like Lugano, Knysna and Cape Town all merged into one. Nature is the boss of the island: Atlantic rainforest, Iguanas the size of crocodiles, multicoloured butterflies, birds that emit the craziest sounds, dolphins, very hungry mosquitoes, lots of centipedes and gigantic hairy spiders. 



View from my bedroom at the hostel, with 11km Barra da Lagoa beach int he background

Sunset from my hostel room.

The hostel is an interesting place to stay, there are lots of young people of all nationalities and I have met so many great people. I have gone surfing with new friends, walked to the “killer” waterfalls in the tiny fishing village of Costa da Lagoa, drove to Blumenau and drank beer at the second biggest Oktoberfest in the world with fourth generation German settlers, ate the best sushi of my life in company of new friends, taken a day trip to the Southern tip of the island where Barry the dog followed us for 1 and a half hours along the trail to a deserted beach called “Shipwrecked”. Went rafting on a local river in the catarinense country sid that looked like Austria or Germany with cows scattered everywhere.... with palms and monkeys there to make things a little exotic.
I have fallen asleep and woken up with the ever present sound of the waves crashing in on the small stretch of sand of the aptly named Prainha do Leste. Hundreds of times I have crossed the blue bridge that goes over the canal that takes water from the sea to the lagoon and from the lagoon to the sea. I hiked for an hour on a slippery steep path leading to the beautiful Gelheta beach carrying a surfboard all the way only to discover that the waves were too big and the current too strong for my current level of fitness. I have drank the sugary guaranà energy drink, eaten countless açaì bowls with fruits. Yes, Brazil is beautiful, yes the girls are truly stunning, people dance samba but usually not on the street and the surf is decent on the local beach of Barra da Lagoa and too difficult on the other beaches on the island.

I still cannot believe that I am really doing this, I am really out here living my dream, meeting new people, discovering new places and having all these great experiences. I am the luckiest person alive.

I crowned a life long dream just two days ago when I went out for a surf, caught a wave, turned around and saw two dolphins surfing the wave behind me. I paddled out and to my left a dolphin jumped out of the water as if to salute me. I will treasure this experience for as long as I live. In one week's time I will be flying to Rio de Janeiro and catching up with my old friend Thiago and in sixteen days time I will be headed back to my beloved Trujillo, Perù, where I will see all my friends.

Pancakes with George (England) and Yasmin (Denmark) on the terrace of the Barra Beach Club bar. We shared lots of great moments in Floripa!

Friday, October 7, 2011

Birthdays, whales and a megalopolis.

So what have I been up to? Why did I visit South Africa for the third time in twelve months? Where am as I write this?
After my visit to the Kruger and the great time with my cousins (thank you Gabi, JP, Milly and Nick!) I headed down to Cape Town where I was joined by my parents and my sister. There was a very special reason for this long distance family reunion: we celebrated my mom's 60th birthday! It was a special occasion and we celebrated at the beautiful Kirstenbosch gardens, one of my favourite places in Cape Town. Family and friends joined us and I'm sure that my grandmother was somehow with us, organizing a beautiful summer day in the middle of spring and ensuring that the flowers looked as stunning as possible. Once again -a little late-: happy birthday mom! You are the best!

Birthday mom and birthday sister at the Kirstenbosch gardens!

We also went on a family outing to Hermanus with Paddy and Carol (who are like family to us). Hermanus is a pretty village that is two hours from Cape Town and can pride itself to have the best land based whale watching in the world from late September to November. Watching a Southern Right Whale -a creature that weighs as much as 5 African elephants- elegantly leap out of the water sending it spraying in all directions on landing is something truly spectacular. We set up a little pic-nick in a sheltered spot that was the envy of all the German, Swiss German and Dutch tourists in town! Ah, die hätten gerne mitgegessen!

whales breaching in Hermanus, no zoom used for this picture



In Cape Town I managed to surf and catch up with friends. I also really enjoyed my sister's company, we went for long drives to the beaches of the Cape or visited the many malls in Cape Town. A big happy birthday to my little sister who turned 26 on the 6th of October.

that half a "surfer" is me!

The worst surfer ever, but I do have the most fun!

Me trying not to fall off the board

Me taking off and heading straight into a wave that will close out on me


this pretty sign is in the parking lot right in front of my favourite surf spot in Cape Town :)


On this trip I was reminded of the natural beauty of the Cape, froze my rear end off in the freeeezing waters in Kommetije-Long Beach and discovered that you cannot rent a car at Hertz if you don't have a credit card. You learn the hard way.

Long beach Kommetije, possibly my favourite place in Cape Town!

Scarborough beach, beautiful!

Me and two Tscherman tourists in Blouberg

This sneaky fellow kept some Chinese tourists under siege for a good 30 minutes by sitting under their tour bus.


Also I would like to congratulate my cousin Roberto and his wife Lindsey on the arrival of their beautiful twins Franco and Michela.

It was a special trip and it was made even more special by being with my family.



As I write this I am sitting on a bus in the busy megalopolis of Sao Paulo, the traffic is crazy and I am a little tired from the flight. I will be spending a couple of days in Sao Paulo and then heading to Florianopolis, which is situated in the southern state of Santa Catarina. Brazilians are super friendly and helpful even though they often don't speak a word of English. I get by with a ridiculous mixture of Itañol which sounds much like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB6GAEXdv4w. Absolutely pathetic, but so fun!

Sao Paulo is crazy, it is absolutely huge and so busy, it is very intimidating for me... the metropolitan area of Sao Paulo has around 20mio inhabitants... the whole of switzerland has 7mio and my village back home has 1'500, so when I flew in and saw the endless city composed mainly of high rise buildings my jaw dropped open. The traffic, the pollution, the speed... it is all a little too much for a little country boy. Tomorrow evening I will escape this urban delirium and head down to the island of Florianopolis.


ps: thank you Nati for the awesome pictures!